For what it's worth, I found that www.garage-a-records.com sells a Dual 12XX series lubrication kit. It consists of all five special lubricants, each shipped in its own syringe…. for $25.
You are the blind, leading the blind. Everyone is referring to the manual, guessing what these oils are and where they go. Person 'A' says sewing machine oil; 'B' says Mobile 1. You need to understand that this model is complex, and very easy to f*** up. Also, you need to repeat after me, “If it ain't broke, then don't try to fix it.” Use plain, ordinary 10W40- [nothing thicker or thinner] car engine oil on the motor, platter bearing and support, idler support rod, knob shaft bushings, under-chassis lever pivot-points. Clean the gear, but use nothing to replace that grease. Everyone seems to ruin that gear, by getting grease all over everything. The trip prawl is too easy to foul up. You can use 'PhonoLube', but it will still muck things up if/when it gets into all the little doohickies on the gear. I always drop the platter bearing, clean, and then re-oil. Can you attempt that? Also, the motor needs to be split open to get oil into the top bushing. Unless the cueing is fast, leave it alone. W/O the previous experience of a disassembly, replacing that Wacker 300,000 weight damping paste (fluid) can lead to breaking things, including the all-plastic rear-gimble height-adjuster. Also, the arm may bind afterwards. Never think that anything from AutoZone can do the job of that damping paste. Lightly sand the idler wheel with 600+grit emory paper, while it is being spun by the motor. Clean the platter inner rim, and motor pulley with vodka. Drink the rest. Tighten up on the arm bearings, if you dare. This is best done with the tonearm in your hand; uninstalled from the machine.
Also, order the guide-white and the washer; part #s 216-845 and 223-777, from [WWW.turntableexperts.com] They must be replaced.